THE END

We are now safely back in Mackay - arrived on the 14th September after a six day crossing from Noumea - light winds most of the way - our friends Judy & Peter Tardrew joined us in Noumea for the last leg home.
We are sad that it has ended but now on to the next adventure - I wonder what that will be?

WE ARE NEARLY HOME

After 5,000 nm we are in New Caledonia - we arrived today 22nd August, and we will spend a few weeks here cruising around the Illes de Pines and other areas and then head back for Mackay.
We spent a week in Nuiatoputapu (northern island in Tonga) and had a fabulous time - meeting the people and especially the children. We cycled around the island - the road almost didnt exist for half of it and whilst trying to miss trees and bushes and not run over the coconuts on the track, I found myself lying in a bush with the bike on top of me - such fun !!!!
The people of Nuiatoputapu are cut off and only have access from a 3 weekly supply ship - they lead still the traditional Tongan way of life -
We did a flying visit to Fiji - so much to see and so little time - snorkeled on Rainbow Reef and the coral and fish were the best we have ever seen - if I had an underwater camera you would have seen the sights too. Met a local Fijian character there whose family owned all the land around the bay and into the next couple as well - took us out to the reef and we anchored on the reef in this little bit of sand - would not have been confident to do it ourselves.
More later when we return to Australia and bore everyone to bits with our stories.

PALMERSTON ISLAND (COOK ISLANDS)

What a gem - we nearly didn’t stop to see it as the wind was blowing from the wrong direction and we couldn’t see any buoys. A call on the radio from Edward and we turned around and came back and are so glad we did.
It is a small motu on the atoll of Palmerston Island (part of the Cook Islands) – all 53 inhabitents live on it and only visit the other motus in the group for a holiday or a fishing expedition. They are all descendent from the the original settler William Marsters – a whaler who acquired the land and brought 3 wives from another Cook Island, Penryn. He lived to 78 years of age and sired 26 children in three families which he kept separated in three houses.
Most of the descendents are either in Raratonga (capital of the Cook Islands), in Australia or New Zealand. The island at the present moment can only support 120 people. The supply ship only comes every 3 – 6 months – so you would need to get your order right!
They can grow some fruit and vegetables in ‘Patches’ which have been specially dug for the purpose of growing some of their own food.
I cannot describe the beauty of this motu and the colours of the water – it is completely untouched and the people live harmoniously amongst the natural vegetation of the island.

WE CAUGHT A FISH !!!!!!

An amazing thing happen the other day – we caught a large fish – about 4’ long and 20 kg – it was just about beyond us to bring it in – gave a good dose of gin to knock him out and then we brought him on board and now we have lots of fish.

THE STORY OF WILSON

Vanessa found a lonely coconut at 'Bird Island' at Tikehau in the Tuomotos and brought it back to the boat and named him 'Wilson' - (ref Tom Hanks movie)
Wilson has been travelling around with us since Vanessa went home and so we thought at Huahine that Wilson needed to be reunited with his 'pals' and so David and I took him ashore and replanted him on a beach.
Coconuts are amazing resilient and will grow anywhere so we have great hope that 'Wilson' will survive.

STILL IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

Mandrake is still in French Polynesia ( big place) – currently in Raiatea which is just south of Bora Bora. We will be exiting this part of the world in about a weeks time and sailing west for the Cook Islands and Tonga – a trip of about 1300 nm in all.
For those of you who are huddling under blankets in Melbourne, it has not been all roses here in paradise. The last week has brought strong winds up to 30 knts and rain – making it cold for these parts.
Under the title of Photos in Raiatea, take note of global warming effect on a house here – one more fraction of a degree of warming and he will be underwater. Though he does have position.!!

THE TUOMOTUS

These are a group of atolls to the south west of the Marquesas – once called the dangerous iles as they are all low lying – barely above sea level with a few palm trees growing on the top of them.
We visited Manihi where a lot of black pearl farming is done. We tried to buy pearls in the village but ‘the man’ wasn’t there – so oh well that’s that. Next day we tried to leave and couldn’t get our anchor up – tried for about an hour. Then we heard that ‘the man’ could fix it the next day. After a very disjointed radio conversation on the VHF the next morning in partial English and French, we gathered that he could come out and try to get the anchor up but we also got the impression that it was connected to us agreeing to go visit his pearl farm.
Out he came and free dived 20 meters on the anchor about a dozen times (this guy free dives to 30 meters and wasn’t a teenager) – after 45 minutes we were free and we asked how much – he wanted rope so David gave him 6 meters of Kevlar rope that we had on the deck. Happy chappy now – so next was the visit to the pearl farm.
Robert and I went out to the farm whilst David stayed on the boat – we weren’t game to anchor again – we were the 21st boat that season that he had to help with the anchor.
Very interesting time and we managed to purchase pearls that we harvested ourselves ie pulled the oysters up from where they grow on the farm (in the middle of the lagoon) and then they were opened and we extracted the pearl from the oyster – that is if there was one in it that had grown. Great time.
We next went to Rangiroa about 500 nm away and swam with reef sharks in the Blue Lagoon.
Next we went to Tikehau and anchored off ‘Bird Island” and swam and snorkeled on the surrounding reef. The local villages are built on the largest piece of land at the atolls and this might only give them 8 miles of road – and they all have cars – dead flat land – so why would you buy a car- where can you go – from one end of the road to the other!!!

THE SOCIETY ISLANDS – TAHITI, MOOREA,

First island to visit was Moorea where we anchored in the Bay that some of South Pacific was filmed in – spectacular mountains – photos on the blog tell the story.
After a few days there we went to Papeete 10 nm away to do a few things.

THE MARQUESAS

We have visited five of the islands – the photos in the Picture albums tell the story.
The weather is the same most days though we have had a bit of rain – good to wash the salt off the boat. The sea temperature is about 33 degrees – very warm – we don’t swim that much as there are munchies around. We swam off a beach a few days ago which was very pleasant and in a very cold swimming hole just behind the beach on one of the islands. Robert and I scrambled our way up to a waterfall with a pool at the base of it for a look and a swim.

CROSSING FROM SAN DIEGO TO THE MARQUESAS (FRENCH POLYNESIA)

The crossing is 2,800 nm as the crow flies but in reality about 3,000 nm as one cannot always sail in a straight line. We made the crossing in 23 days which is quite good time. We made our first landing at Bay of Virgins at Fatu Hiva in the Marquesa Islands. Described as the most beautiful bay in the world.
What do you see and do you might ask. Well, we see the same thing everyday – water in its different moods as well as skies. Each day passes in a different way – some days we seem to do many sail combinations – the skipper sees us having too good a time reading sleeping etc and thinks he needs to liven the show . This usually only happens on days when there is light airs and we are trying to keep the boat moving.
We had a really good run down to close the Equator with 10 – 15 knots of breeze behind us – we didn’t put the engine on for a week – just ran the Gen set for the batteries. At about 08 degrees North we ran out of consistent wind and entered the ITCZ (doldrums). We had light airs, rain and lots of squalls. At around 03 degrees N we were through and the wind from the SE stayed in and the trades developed.
We broke the boom end fitting at the goose neck and jury rigged the boom so we could put a partial main out. In 15 – 20 kts of breeze we are doing 7 – 8 knts reaching with a boat weighing 25 tonne fully loaded with food and fuel – not too bad with a partial rig up.
We have seen dolphins twice and small pilot whale once – no fish caught to date – did catch a small dolphin fish but put him back – lots of bites. Some bird life and lots of flying fish especially in the mornings after a fast ride in the night.
We have had a birthday, a wedding anniversary and a few arguments but everyone is still smiling – Robert must wonder will this trip will ever end. It is a case of endurance and patience which is bit hard at times when the boat is chucking itself around the ocean – especially for the cook – Me Julie.

NEARLY READY TO GO

1ST APRIL - Only another couple of days to go - photos of our fuel bladder from Aussie company Turtlepac on the foredeck - 750 lt of diesel + 400 lt in boats tanks . Looks good and expect it go really well.


UPDATE: 25.3.08 - We are planning to leave on the 5th April - we will probably go down to Ensenada Mexico first - just 60nm south - to buy of all things UHT milk - cannot buy it in the USA. !!!!

We are progressing along with departure - our freight from Australia arrived finally - all in good order.

Me, Julie, is recovering from a broken bone in my hand - fell over in the boat - at the dock!!!!

The weather in San Diego has been very cold as well as some lovely warm spring days.

Our mode of transport is bicycle - two fold up bikes for the trip - we have now been lent a 30 yr old manual geared diesel Mercedes which we lurch around San Diego in to the supermarket etc. Great fun and good to have. - David loves it.

There are a few photos of the Marina - Kona Kai - lots and lots of boats.

A few of San Diego and the aircraft carrier the Midway.

OUR CREW - WELCOME

The rest below is all lies - the picture is the real reason why we asked Robert to sail with us - fishing - David and I haven't had a lot of luck fishing in the Whitsundays recently.


Robert Hennessey has agreed to join us for the long haul from San Diego to Tahiti - Robert has his own 55' Pugh in Mackay and we have had many enjoyable hours at anchor and sailing with him over the last two years in the Whitsundays. Robert arrives mid March and will be welcomed by us to do the last minute rush jobs before sailing off into the blue Pacific. We will let Robert go off sometimes so that he can see the wonders of San Diego - lovely spot.

Why did we buy a boat in the USA?

We had the idea to buy a boat in the USA but possibly a bit later - especially after we sold our current boat in Australia. We went to the Fort Lauderdale Boat show in October 2007 and saw only power boats. We did see an Oyster 55 in Miami and put in an offer - exceptionally low one I might add - and of course was not accepted.

We then went to Los Angeles where we saw a Beneteau 523 that was not for sale BUT there was one for sale in Mexico at Ensenada. This boat was 2006 build and had only 65 hrs on the engine - can you imagine that - turned out to be subject to a divorce and must sell.

We put in an offer and off we went to Mexico to see the boat.

Boats in general are cheaper in the USA than Australia and especially attractive now that the US dollar is so much lower against the Australian dollar.

So here we are getting ready to sail and have an adventure along the way.